I will describe how to attain an advantage in casino craps by using dice control. I'll discuss the issues of whether or not an advantage can actually be achieved, present some ideas for how to prove to yourself that an advantage exists, and teach you how to attain and exploit an advantage by using dice control.
Casino craps is an easy game to learn and the only game where you, the player, can create your own edge over the casino and hold your winning destiny right in your own hands.
This differs from blackjack where you have no control over the shuffle or the order of the cards in the shoe. Your craps edge using dice control differs from roulette where you have no control over the croupier's spin of the wheel or the release of the ball.
In casino craps, you hold the dice and how you set them, grip them and throw them determines the advantage you can achieve. In other words, you have control!
Let's start with the basics. If you're not familiar with the rules of play, think of craps this way: Holding the dice in your hand, you throw them down the table, hit the back wall and they come to rest. If they land on a 7 you lose; if they land on a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, you win if you are betting on those numbers; if they land on 2, 3, 11, 12, you neither win nor lose.
Now, think of the power you would possess if you could throw the dice to avoid the losing 7. That's what dice control is all about -- to set and throw the dice in such a way as to avoid the losing 7 during the point cycle when your objective is to repeat the number you threw on the first roll of this series - called the "come out" roll.
Mastering dice control will give you to power to walk up to a craps table knowing that you have an excellent chance of creating a hot table, that when your turn comes to pick up the dice, you will throw number after number without the losing seven showing, collecting profits on almost every roll of the dice. Not every time, but often enough to collect winnings, sometimes substantial winnings, before throwing the losing seven and handing the dice to the next shooter for his turn.
How would you like to walk up to a craps table knowing that you had an excellent chance of creating a hot table, that when your turn came to pick up the dice, you could throw number after number without the losing seven showing, collecting profits on almost every roll of the dice?
How would it feel to make pass line bets and place bets with the confidence of collecting winnings, sometimes substantial winnings, before sevening out? Most of the time hot shooters and hot tables like this occur by chance. But, experienced "rhythm rollers" can create them. And that's what dice control is all about - developing a "rhythm roll" that turns the tables on the casino, swings the advantage to you the shooter, and gives you the means of creating a hot craps table.
To develop an advantage at craps, you must alter the physical phenomena of the game. To do this, you must learn how to control the dice, that is, throw the dice in such a way as to minimize the number of losing sevens being thrown after the point number is established. You achieve an advantage by throwing less than one 7 for every six rolls of the dice after the point has been established.
The idea of dice control has been around for years. I first heard about it in the early '80s when an elderly gentleman in one of my craps classes demonstrated how to set and how to throw the cubes. But his throw involved sliding the dice down the layout after setting them to achieve the desired result. He called his throw "the old Army Blanket Roll" and it was widely used by sharpers among the Servicemen in World War II and, afterwards, on the back streets and in the illegal casinos in New York City and elsewhere.
You could get away with using "the slider" throw in the early days in Vegas, but the casino bosses soon caught on and outlawed it. This sliding throw is the reason that the casinos string that thin piece of wire across the center of the table - to prohibit it by stopping the cubes on their path down the table.
A few other players showed me their parabolic controlled throws over the years none of which proved effective. Either their throws were too high (thus drawing the ire of the Stick Man and/or Box Man) and/or bounced too much after landing and banging against the back wall, thus ending up as a random throw.
I began to fool around with dice control in the mid-90s after losing interest in blackjack. I had about a two-year run of success at the craps tables which prompted me to analyze my play and ask the question "what am I doing different from before when I was losing?" I concluded that my throw had become more rhythmic and that I was subconsciously analyzing the form of other shooters with a very discerning eye before committing to wager anything other than a minimum bet on their hand. A young engineer who called himself "Sharps" came to my attention in one of my blackjack sessions.
Is it possible to get an edge over the casino - an actual measurable statistical advantage? That's what this report is all about.
But before we start, a short lesson on how to play
For the time being, think of craps this way: Holding the dice in your hand, you throw them down the table, hit the back wall and they come to rest. If they land on a 7 you lose; if they land on a 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, you win if you are betting on those numbers; if they land on 2, 3, 11, 12, you neither win nor lose.
Using Dice Control and/or betting on another shooter with Dice Control skills, the advantage is achievable and measurable.
Get out a pair of dice and hold them in your hands. Do that now and then come back here and continue reading (if you don't have a pair, I suggest picking one up from the drugstore or casino next time you go). Put the two fives on top with the 1s pointing to the left. Now look on the inside faces - open up the two fives. What do you see? A six on the left die and a one on the right die - the seven.
Now look at the two outside faces - the left face and the right face. You see the other 1 and the other six - another seven. In setting the dice in this way, we are putting two of the sevens out of the way -- one on the inside and one on the outside. I know, I know, they may not stay there as the dice fly through the air, but as you learn to control the dice and keep them more or less together through their orbit, the chances of these two sevens coming up are minimized. Not eliminated, minimized.
In Chapter 11 of "Casino Gambling" we developed the calculations for deriving the player advantage. And we showed that just one controlled throw out of every 43 rolls of the dice would eliminate the house edge and yield a break-even game. So, it's not that difficult to attain an advantage. The set I showed you above we call the "hard way set" because the pairs show on all four sides: 5,5; 4,4; 3,3; and 2,2.
This is a good set to use when you get some experience in executing the controlled throw, but not when you are first starting out as a rhythm roller. (Use the Quick Set )
Here is what to remember about the Quick Set: the dealer will never push the dice back to you with a seven on top - this is considered extremely impolite and is just never done. But the dice may come back to you with a seven on the side. Notice this when the stick man pushes the dice back to you prior to your throw. If you see the seven on the side, simply rotate either die a quarter turn to take off the seven. That's all.
Try it now with your two die - set a one and six on the side with a 3 and 2 on top. Rotate the right die a quarter turn to take off the seven. What do you see? You should see a 3, 1 on top and a 1, 2 facing you -- the seven is gone and the chances of throwing a losing seven thereby minimized.
To summarize, the first lesson in advantage craps is setting the dice. Or at least understanding how the set affects the outcome. Do you need to set the dice to gain an advantage? No you don't. But setting will achieve the highest advantage possible.
Finding and exploiting other rhythm rollers
Here are the questions to ask yourself as you observe other shooters at the craps table:
Question 1: Does the shooter set the dice?
Question 2: Does the shooter shake the dice in his hand before throwing?
Question 3: Does the shooter throw the dice the same way each time; i.e., is his form the same, or nearly the same, on each throw? Notice the rhythm of the throw.
For Question 1, you would like to see the set, but this isn't mandatory.
For Question 2, if the shooter shakes the dice, his throw will probably be random; watch his form carefully and you will know.
For Question 3, if the shooter throws the dice with no apparent form, it is obviously a random throw.
You want to see the same release, and you want to see some elevation on the launch -- not too much, visualize about 45 degrees and you will have it.
After the launch as the dice come down out of orbit, you want to see the dice landing approximately the same distance before the back wall each time. If the dice are skipping down the table or if the shooter is "feeding the chickens" as we call it, you are looking at a random throw (visualize a farmer's wife with a box of feed in her left hand and her right hand reaching in and scattering feed in a repetitive movement - that's "feeding the chickens" - a random throw).
Make it a habit of studying the other shooters and you will find one that delivers an advantage.
One more point, even if you get the right answers to these three questions, you may not get an advantage hand; i.e. a hand of greater than six rolls.
One reason is that the shooter may have inadvertently picked up the dice with a seven on the side yielding a higher chance of throwing the losing seven.
Another reason may be a random outcome of a controlled throw. The dice will bounce after landing. The key words here are "altering the natural outcome of the dice." This will not happen on every roll, not even for a skilled rhythm roller like me or my wife. But you will find shooters like example mentioned above that held the dice for 36 minutes and delivered a multi-unit profit on a long hand.
To end this lesson, let me ask you a question. Would you rather put your money, or increase your bet on a shooter who throws at random, or one with at least a modicum of control?
Every crap shooter wants the long hand. This is what it's all about. You have a better chance of realizing this goal with a controlled thrower. So evaluate the other shooters. Increase your bet if you see control; decrease your bet if you see random.
In your next casino session, make it a point of studying the other shooters. Bet with those that show some control. Lay off or make a table minimum bet only on those that "feed the chickens."
I have heard from some of you who have taken these newly developed skills into the casino, were successful in getting an edge, and won some money.
Now to Lesson 4. At the About.com Casino Gambling Guide, Bill Burton, has spent a considerable amount of time in reviewing PARR -- in fact, he took both the PARR Home Study Course and attended the weekend PARR Clinic in Atlantic City in late February. I will link you to his comments on the course in just a few more paragraphs. But first, I suggest that when you visit his site you do more than just read his comments about my PARR Course. He provides you with a wealth of information about dice control. He links you to sites that show you how to set the dice, how to throw the dice, and sites that show you many different dice sets that you can choose from. One site actually gives you the plans for building your own miniature craps table so you can practice your controlled throw at home. If you're not familiar with the game, you will find a lesson on how to play, and even a craps game that you can play where no money changes hands. He also is chairing a discussion group on dice control. You can check in and see what others are saying about this hot gambling topic which has been growing in popularity in direct proportion to the sales of Casino Gambling. All of this information is interesting and, I believe, you will find some of it useful - especially if you plan on learning how to control the dice and achieve an edge over the casino on your own. Why am I directing you to all this free information on dice control when I'm trying to sell you a course? Because I believe that the more knowledge you have about the game, the more you will come to appreciate the instruction and value contained in the PARR Course (but you can be the judge of this). I believe that the only pathway to achieving the status of a consistent and permanent winner at craps is learning dice control.
To learn a set that has been extremley successfull for us. Click to Win Here
A hedge is a bet that almost cancels out another bet resulting in a small but positive profit. You will usually get comp credit for both the original bet AND the hedge.
For example, if you have a don't-pass bet of $20 and the point is six or eight, you can place bet the same number for $18. Then if the seven rolls you win $20 and lose $18, giving you a $2 profit. If the six or eight rolls, you win $21 (7:6 odds) and lose $20, giving you a $1 profit. If the point is 4 or 10, you can place either number for $15. If the seven rolls, you win $5 ($20-$15), and if the point is made you win $7 ($27-$20). Finally, if 5 or 9 is the point you can place either number for $15. If the seven rolls you win $5 ($20-$15). If the point rolls you win $1 ($21-$20).
You will usually receive comp credit for the $20 flat bet PLUS the additional bet - which makes you a $40 bettor with very little risk! If you think about it, you can turn almost every bet you make in a hedged bet. If you bet $25 pass-line you can hedge it from the two, three and twelve by betting 3-way craps. In addition, you can add place bets before the come out and have them hedged by the pass line bet.
For example you can bet $22 inside ($5 on the five and nine, and $6 on the six and eight), along with your $25 pass line and $3 3-way. If one of the inside numbers hits, you win $4 ($7 -$3). If the seven rolls you break even ($25 - $22 - $3). If the eleven rolls, you win $22 ($25-$3). The two/twelve will give you a $5 profit ($30 - $22 - $3). Your only loss comes from the three (-$25 -$2 +$15 = -$12) but you can hedge that (if a lot of 3's are rolling) by betting $2 instead of $1 on the three.
You can also hedge your don't come bets. Many times a don't bettor will see their $25 don't come go to the six or eight and they will yell "no action". Instead they could place a hedge bet and be assured of a small profit. You can place either number for $24. If the seven rolls, you win $1 ($25 - $24). If the six or eight rolls you win $3 ($28 - $25) - not much in either case, but certainly better than the nothing you would have received by removing your bets!
If you're on the don't-come and the point is not a six or eight, the betting gets easier. If your $25 don't come goes to the four or ten, you can place $15 on that number. If the seven rolls you win $10 ($25 - $15) and if the four or ten rolls, you win $5 ($30 - $25). The five or nine also can give you a profit on $25 hedged don't-come bets. Just bet $20 on the number. If the seven rolls you win $5 ($25 - $20). If the five or nine hits you win $3 ($28 - $25). As you can see, once you have a don't come or don't pass point, you can be assured of making a profit by using these hedge bets. You can also hedge your pass line bets. You won't make a large profit, but you will get full comp credit for both of these bets at the casinos that give comp credit for spread and not individual bets. So if you want to increase your comps with bets having very little risk, give hedge betting a try!
In the meantime, enjoy your trip to your favorite casino.